Denver, what a beautiful place.
With my new pivoted plan I purchased my ticket to Denver from Hanoi two days before I departed. It was a whirlwind turnaround and left Asia and the other side of the world like ripping off a bandaid. The flight to Denver was easy and I was happy that I connected through Tokyo and across the Pacific to Houston. With this new path home and with GPS coordinates logged, I literally traveled east around the world. Which felt like an accomplishment even though the majority of the traverse was trans-continental flights. But it was completed on a single trip and I am proud of checking off that bucket list item.
The plans had changed so quickly I didn’t tell many people of my arrival but word got out fast. Once arriving in Houston I was hit with a bit of culture shock. Floored and reminded of American life while processing a new found appreciation for it all. It was clean and I for the first time in months I could over hear conversations occurring around me. Posting a picture with the ‘Welcome’ sign in DIA and a caption of “April Fools” added to the confusion of my arrival. It didn’t feel real and felt like a joke which I wanted to keep light.
Adjusting to the 13hr time change is always a challenge but with some early naps and only waking up once at 4am, I was over jet-lag within the weekend. All the weight I lost over the past 6 months has been quickly replaced over drinks and meals with friends.
It has been fantastic seeing friends and those who helped me before I left. Always a treat to see a smile when people recognize it’s me. Showing a postcard I sent hanging on their wall or telling me they were thinking about me and hoping I was still alive. Everyone has been so warm, kind and accommodating to me, interested in what I have learned, my stories, and travels.
I have never been one to enjoy being the center of attention. I prefer staying hidden and a faceless part of the crowd. Less attention is my goal but with such a trip comes interest and questions and have accepted it is part of the territory. I am flattered that so many people seem to have a genuine interest in me, my choice to go, and how I am using my time. Historically I have always shied away from compliments but have had to learn to accept them graciously while attempting to respond as humbly as I can.
Hearing me and my choice, being referred to as inspirational, brave, or courageous is new and while strange feels great. I feel proud and it helps continue to confirm my decision. While I don’t see it through the same lens it’s lovely to hear and helps keep my head held high and a smile on my face.
“Day to day nothing changes but look back and everything is different”. Six months really isn’t a long time in the scheme of things but a lot has changed since I left. Catching up I feel an overwhelming sense of pride for my friends and how they have spend their time. Everyone seems to be doing great and achieving goals they worried about before I left. I didn’t see the hard work but I saw two snap shots spaced a half a year apart. A difference in mindset, situation, and positivity is overwhelmingly apparent to me but I’m not so sure to them.
Reaching goals focused around buying a home, new career paths, going back go school, love, and sabbaticals all seem to be sorted, on their way, and concerns dismissed. It’s fucking awesome. Folks are leveling up through a step function and creating their best lives. Happy to have them in my life and excited to see how things look when I get back, again.
I can’t help to selfishly think I had some sort of impact. Being an example that while the unknown is scary, doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do it. As if I jumped off a cliff into the darkness at midnight and waving up yelling “come on in the water is great!”. All while feeling emotionally invested in their subsequent failure or success. I have never wanted to influence anyone for fear of persuading them into a regretful situation, but I have experienced the momentum of positive energy created and can’t help but mentally take credit for starting the spark.
Once I was rested I started the project of rebuilding my bike. This is a different motorcycle than the one I had in Asia. My bike in Asia was a 150cc dirt-bike, the new bike is a 650cc dual-sport. Much bigger bike but very much suited for a true round the world cruise.
I owned my KLR 650 before I left for my trip and it was patiently waiting for me. When I considered the possibility of riding to South America it occurred to me that I already had the right bike in my possession and it was just collecting dust in a storage unit in Aurora. What a shame to let that bike sit unused and waiting. I recalled the night I bought that bike, I didn’t even know how to ride it and my friend had to drove it home for me. The guy I bought it from said he was bummed he never got to take it on any real adventures and hoped whoever bought it would do something sick with it. Well Craigslist Matt, I hope this trip makes you proud.
As I have said many times, I haven’t been riding for long. Just over a year ago I got my moto license and never drove a vehicle with a clutch nor rode a motorcycle previously. A year ago I may have dreamed about a road trip to the end of the continent but couldn’t conceive that it would ever become a reality.
When I made the decision to go to Denver and ride, I couldn’t help but think about how the groundwork for this new plan has been forming for years. Decisions I made to get rid of my car, the random thought of purchasing the bike, and the support structure that seemed to evolve organically. It truly felt as if I was manifesting my reality though my thoughts coupled with my decisions. Points being connected which previously didn’t seem relevant nor important showed themselves when the time came.
The feeling continued to be verified in a small experience I had while cleaning trash around an ally dumpster. I was thinking about supplies I needed and recalled I had lost a few carabiners which needed to be replaced. A small item but very useful. I picked up the beer cans and various other rubbish in the area, packing them into trash bags and placing the bags in the cans. It wasn’t a large gesture but just something I could help with and had time to complete.
Just as I was finishing and picking up the last piece of trash, something caught my eye. Buried in the dirt a sliver of red peaked through the grass. Reaching down I uncovered a red carabiner and laughed manically to myself. "Ohhh Universe, you do it again.” This all could have been random, but the odds are just too slim. Message received, I’ll take it as a lesson to keep doing the right things.
When the weather warmed I picked up my bike from my storage locker and got to work. Fired right up once reassembled and rode without skipping a beat. No less than 15 large packages arrived at the Globevillans club house and my friends stored them in their living room awaiting my return no questions asked. I’ll never be able to return the favor but I’ll certainly try to pay it forward.
At the same house I had access to a garage and through my friend network in the area, had all the tools I didn’t even think about needing. I 100% believed I could do all the work with the tools I had and I was 100% wrong. Every job took a tool I didn’t have but was graciously allowed to borrow without hesitation. My friend Josh was available to help who saved my ass more times than I could attempt to keep track. I bit off way, way, too much to chew but through youtube, the tools at my disposal, and support of friends, everything started to come together.
I’ve never build anything with an engine before and was looking forward to the challenge. I didn’t know what I didn’t know but was excited to follow my vision. Based on my previous experience riding I knew what areas I wanted to improve and what would help me on the journey. The KLRs are known to be mechanically sound bikes and with the low miles, I didn’t have many reliability concerns. The engine is fine but just about every other aspect of the bike needed to be modified.
Over the course of a week we got a crash course in just about everything motorcycles. With the help of a paper manual and youtube, we slowly started to check things off the list. Slowly tearing the bike apart and organizing the bolts with a labeled cardboard palette, we were left with the engine and frame sitting on the stand supported by ratchet straps attached to the rafters of the garage. The suspension, wheels, drive train, and all electrical systems removed and laid in organized chaos on the floor. The majority of the parts removed would not have a home on our new creation.
We drilled through the thick steel frame with a hammer drill to reinforce the subframe for the increased weight of my gear. Upgrading the front fork springs and rear suspension for better handling on the highway and dirt roads that I will encounter along the way. A 60% larger 10-gallon plastic gas tank took the place of the stock fuel cell to allow me to ride ~500 miles before needing to refuel. The tank providing additional protection around the engine in the event of a crash while placing the additional weight of the fuel low and stably around the front wheel. A fuel range where I will fatigue before the bike but will allow me to travel through Northern Mexico in one shot avoiding the need to stop in potentially dangerous territory. Super bright LED headlights allowing better visibility and alerting oncoming traffic to my presence. New tires, chain, and sprockets allowing the bike to stay on the road safely and without interruption.
Each upgrade has its specific need satisfying my concerns and logic of how to get south and ahead of common problems. The process felt more like an lego set than building a two-wheeled death machine. As the bike came together my anxiety subsided replaced with confidence that I might actually pull this off. Too many times sighing to myself “this is fucking crazy” only being followed by a new breakthrough or progress toward its completion.
After a total of ~40 hours building, the bike started, stepping back we felt proud to have completed a task I once would have categorized as impossible and outside my abilities. I learned and was reminded that everything has felt that way previously. From walking and learning to talk as a child to graduating college and achievements within my career. It just takes time coupled with taking the first step toward attempting the ‘impossible’, everything else just fills in.
Briefing people about my plan whom I have never met before has been a real treat. From the shop guys at the parts counter, to the random DIY moto garage I found, everyone has been very supportive and helping in anyway they can. Providing knowledge, parts, and being a sounding block as I verbalize my scattered thoughts. Each person more knowledgeable than I and thinking through the problem in their own way.
I attempt to approach everyone I meet as someone I can learn something from and try to listen as a sponge. In these conversations I try not to project myself in any way as an expert but as a pupil. Once showing these mechanical experts my hand and acknowledging my lack of knowledge, they are quick to fill in the gaps. Once the slack jawed reaction of my grand vision wears off, it’s not a lecture about how I’m an idiot for attempting but their chance to support and help me in my journey.
These guys are intimidating but very kind and want to live vicariously through me. I have the resources, time, and the balls to make it happen, I just lack the fear I once had and posses the ignorance to try it. Many of their concerns I had thought through providing me with confidence and credibility and the ones I hadn’t they provided a rubric or blueprint of how to complete it.
Once the bike was operational I took it on its maiden voyage to Boulder to visit Rube and return some tools he loaned me. Great to see him and the bike performed flawlessly. It reached speed better than it ever has and handled like a dream. I was so excited and proud as I weaved traffic and buzzed around Boulder. It was the day before I was going back to Philly for a week and was finishing some last minute chores.
I felt on top of the world riding a machine that I built. My vision had manifested into reality. Late in the afternoon just as I approached the final stretch into Denver, the bike died in the left hand lane. Without power and coasting at 70mph I merged across to the shoulder waving away cars as I cut them off. I figured I didn’t put something together right and had a feeling it was the new vacuum lines. After tinkering for a few minutes the bike started again, I left the shoulder and merged into traffic. 1000 feet later the bike died once more and I couldn’t get it started. I wasn’t even mad but a bit relieved that whatever happened close to home and not on my first day of the trip.
Surpassing my knowledge of the subject I decided to call a guy I met earlier in the week for help. King runs a DIY motorcycle garage in south Denver. I walked in randomly earlier in the week looking for a tool and got talking to him about my trip. He was excited for me and offered to help in anyway he could. He shared his vision for the shop and creating a motorcycle community space, I loved the idea and certainly something I want to be apart.
Waiting on the shoulder of 36 for a tow I called King and explained what had happened and asked if I could drop the bike off for him to take a look. Exceedingly helpful and encouraging he gave me the gate code and said he would be happy to help while I was out of town.
Taking a look as soon as he arrived the following morning and by the time I landed in Philly, he had the problem sorted. Through a series of controlled experiments he concluded that I installed everything correctly and said the work looked great. What I lacked was the knowledge of the vacuum system for the new gas tank and carburetor. While I still had gas in the tank, it was stored lower in the tank below the main fuel intake. Everything was operating fine but I had ran out of gas on my main tank and needed to switch to my reserve. Essentially I just ran out of gas. I was more relieved than any feeling of foolishness and neither him nor the other guys made me feel dumb. They gave the bike a look over, offered some suggestions, and charged me a more than reasonable amount for storage and labor.
It has been lovely being back in the states. I have a new appreciation for it and while I wasn’t planning on coming back, I am glad I did. Living is easy when you don’t have a job and days are filled working on a goal. Noticing things I would have traditionally overlooked as strange I can now understand why everyone wants to live in the US. We have everything at our finger tips and while there are social aspects that we need to address and fix, the foundation is here and I am confident in the future of the country even with the current administration.
I ran errands like food shopping for the first time in so long. I spent too long trying to remember the word “super market” and walked combing the aisles amazed at the abundance of choices. Fresh food, produce, and refrigerated meat taken for granted and was reminded how it felt to trust food and sanitation again. I paused for a moment to look at a refrigerated display for organic dog food. Thinking about the villages and people who lack clean water and food sanitation, it felt a bit like a slap in the face. But pets are family and are apart of this American dream just as anyone else I guess.
The week in Philly was nice and really enjoyed spending time with my mom, sister, and visiting friends. I rode some motorcycles, and ate my weight in pizza, cheese steaks, and chicken parm. We spend a family day visiting the museums of Philadelphia playing tourist. I walked through the neighborhoods and was reminded of the smell of fresh mulch, recalling summers spreading it in the flower beds. I sorted the mail that has been forwarded to my mom and worked on my check list before leaving again. As well as spending time cuddling with HashBrown on the couch, I could tell he missed me.
Many of the conversations I have had follow a similar pattern and have similar questions. A question I have gotten a few times is “What are you doing” pertaining to my longterm plans. It’s easy to talk about how I have spent my time or what secrets of life I believe to have understood better now. But I don’t have an idea of what life will look like when I get done this next leg. I am developing ideas for a business and thinking about how nice it would be to have a small garden and a living room full of soft blankets but no idea how I will spend my days. All I know is I am now open to all the opportunities I was too busy to acknowledge previously and have a new found confidence to try. Something I haven’t processed in the same way previously.
While being back in the states has been relaxing and welcomed, I am finding it difficult to continue to stay conscious of all that I have learned. It is too easy to fall into this old way of life in addition to my old ways. Aspects of myself which I have been actively working on and improving over the past many months.
Meeting new people in a new place allows you to act in a way you are presently or act in a way that you want to be perceived. Once in a previously familiar location or relationship, the familiar responses are almost automatic. It feels as if I am not acting presently but acting up to the expectations of those previous environments and relationships. Not necessarily as my ‘current self’ but as the guy they expected or experienced in the past. I have been working on many aspects of myself but feel as if the progress is lost when reverted back to the old habits or behavior. It’s all a choice of how to act and reminds me that it is always a work in progress, not a setback but a refresher of progress and what’s possible.
Being asked a few times about my route a common concern is around security. As well as what I would do if I ran into “those people”. Many times asked what I am bringing for protection and if it was a handgun or knife.
My route will take me through the heart of Mexico and subsequent Honduras and El Salvador. Central America warrants concern in areas due to drug and human smuggling operations along with militias that control certain areas. I am not brining a gun nor a knife for personal defense. I am however taking measures to avoid crimes of opportunity and being unprepared as a sitting duck. I have done research on which areas to avoid and with the additional range of my fuel cell, travel through sketchy areas without stopping.
My thought being while I consider myself a relatively sound shot that is within controlled environment at a range shooting at paper targets. If someone does put a gun in my face, he’s better shot than me under pressure and he’s a professional. Pulling a Rambo and drawing will only escalate a situation that is compounded by a language barrier, I don’t see it ending well for me. The same goes for a knife. I understand the risks and certainly see the fear created by the media reporting about the regions I’ll be traveling. Even considering all of that, I don’t think the risks warrant avoiding the journey due to what could happen.
I will trust my instincts and prepare for the situation aware of the environments and characters I will come across. I will have my pockets staged with money and cigarettes ready to be leveraged as bribes when the time comes. The world is full of beautiful, helpful, and kind people and I am confident “those people” are in my path and not the ones we hear about in horror stories of the nightly news. People are doing this trip and I see the photo evidence and read about their experiences online. I haven’t met anyone doing this trip but am confident it’s possible, while not common. Which has been the theme for this entire experience so nothing new. “Same Same but different.”
My time in Denver is coming to an end and while I am not getting restless I am aware I need to get moving and continue the momentum. It’s a different feeling living out of a backpack in a place you used to call home. On the road you can wear the same thing everyday and as long as it’s not soiled or smelly, no one knows because it’s the first time they have ever seen you. Here rotating the same three shirts becomes more obvious. I have learned how to to shower daily again and use deodorant. I can’t really live like a backpacker in a developed society without raising a few eyebrows. Just another and different experience which has added to the journey.
This past weekend I had the opportunity to see my favorite artist and musician. Cleon Peterson currently has an exhibit at the MCA and Tallest Man on Earth started a new tour with first stop in Boulder. I got to see both on the same day and was ecstatic for the opportunity. Floored that somehow all the stars have aligned to provide me the experience. Just so happened that I came back to America at the same time my all time favorites were in town.
I first learned about Cleon through his work in 2013. He was a relatively unknown artist but I loved his prints and purchased a few which I hung in my apartments over the years. I started to listen to the Tallest Man in 2008 when I was in school and been following him ever since. I’ve seen him 8x in America and Europe with the last time being 2015. While I have never met either of these guys I feel a connection to them as I have followed their prospective paths.
As I walked through Cleon’s exhibit I remember where I was in life in 2013 when I first discovered him. When I watched the Tallest Man I remembered his songs keeping me company during long nights in the library ten years ago. Both with their place in my development and thinking how much has changed since I first experienced either of them. I can’t say either of them would credit me with any of their success but I sure as hell believed in them as I watched as a spectator.
I have about a week left here in Denver and a laundry list of items to check off my todo list. The next three days will bring a me last minute packages of supplies which need to be installed and packed. I will also take an emergency maneuver training course with the trainer who taught me to ride. The reminder of my time will be spent packing and tying up loose ends. Preparing my supplies and understanding where each item will live over the following months.
The plan is to reach Nicaragua within three weeks after leaving Denver. Riding through Mexico, Guatemala, El Salvador, and Honduras. Reaching a school along the Pacific coast of Nicaragua where I will spend a few weeks learning Spanish. Once leaving Nicaragua, traveling through Costa Rica and Panama where I will sort passage around the Darian Gap. The Darian Gap is a 66 mile wide uninhabited jungle between Panama and Columbia rife with smugglers and paramilitary forces where no road exists. Not many make the trip across and I hope to use a sailboat to ferry me around to Cartagena Columbia. Once around I’ll ride south through Columbia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina reaching Patagonia around December.
Since there are so many variables between here and the end of the earth I haven’t made a decision on how/when I will return. It is dependent on the bike, resources, my energy, and money. Options include riding it all the way back up, shipping the bike and myself from Buenos Aires, selling it down there, or providing a viking funeral for the bike if it’s inoperable. I’ll cross that bridge once I come to it and enjoy my time until it’s a reality.
The creating, planning, and building part of a plan is something I really enjoy. Thinking through situations and mentally preparing to handle various problems. Creating redundancy plans and workarounds acquiring items that can be used creatively for multiple purposes. It’s a puzzle that has no clear solution. While I have enjoyed the preparations it doesn’t matter unless executed. It is time for me to go and find out what’s out there.
Thank you Amelia, Gioeni, Nick, Josh, Rob, LJ, Rube, King, and my friends and family for the support and allowing me to make my dreams a reality. I am constantly reminded that I could never have done this alone and am humbled by everyones generosity. I’ll be thinking about everyone on this next leg and I hope you’ll be thinking about me too because the good vibes have helped out immensely so far. I’ll catch you around on this continent or the next.
- Joe